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Chiricahua National Monument

Chiricahua National Monument

Arizona Spring '19 (Continued #2)

August 17, 2019 by James Engrissei

Well, no trip to AZ is complete without stopping at Copper Horse Vineyard to see our niece and her husband and check out the spring start of the vines. This time the road to the Chiricahua National Monument was still not open for the season. Last summer it was roadwork and flash floods from the summer monsoons. This year we drove around the Chiricahua range to Wilcox and then into the Monument from the West. We still want to drive the short route, in from Portal. It’s about 80-90 miles shorter and over the top of the mountains which had not been opened yet due to snow. The one saving grace was that we had scheduled to have dinner with Gina and Eric at the Gadsden Hotel in Douglas that evening so we basically made a trip around the range, after driving into the middle of the Monument and back out.

We stayed at the 4 Bar Cottages, a couple of units rented by Bill Cavaliere, about 7 miles east of Portal. https://www.fourbarcottages.com. The place is near a new store and grill that is just getting on its feet. Our unit didn’t have a kitchen but the Portal Grill is close and has good food for someplace in the middle of nowhere. It does a big business with the birders who stay in the area and go into the Chiricahuas for bird watching. There were 2-4 groups of them having breakfast the morning before we headed out to the Monument.

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 These may be Chiricahua deer, a unique subspecies that dwells in these mountains.

These may be Chiricahua deer, a unique subspecies that dwells in these mountains.

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 The buildings in the distant center is Copper Horse Vineyard.  No tasting room out here.  Too hard to get to, if you know where and how to get there.

The buildings in the distant center is Copper Horse Vineyard. No tasting room out here. Too hard to get to, if you know where and how to get there.

 Great barbeque place in Wilcox, AZ.  It’s down by the railroad tracks, as if you couldn’t guess.    Copper Horse and Golden Rule vineyards have their tasting room about a block away.

Great barbeque place in Wilcox, AZ. It’s down by the railroad tracks, as if you couldn’t guess.

Copper Horse and Golden Rule vineyards have their tasting room about a block away.

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 On the way into the Monument from the west

On the way into the Monument from the west

 Nice homesite, but nowhere.

Nice homesite, but nowhere.

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 Trail from the Visitors Center is about 7 miles to the center of the Monument.  Got to do this in the early morning and it helps to have someone drive to the center so you don’t have to walk out in the heat.

Trail from the Visitors Center is about 7 miles to the center of the Monument. Got to do this in the early morning and it helps to have someone drive to the center so you don’t have to walk out in the heat.

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 The first hoodoos you come upon.

The first hoodoos you come upon.

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 The tall thin hoodoo is the “Needle”.  It’s 300’ tall and less than 6’ in diameter.  Some places it’s only 3’ in diameter

The tall thin hoodoo is the “Needle”. It’s 300’ tall and less than 6’ in diameter. Some places it’s only 3’ in diameter

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 Hydration station. Posted outside of a pit toilet. Not sure how you’re supposed to tell the color when the pit is black.

Hydration station. Posted outside of a pit toilet. Not sure how you’re supposed to tell the color when the pit is black.

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 Fire watchtower in the center of the monument.  We weren’t about to hike up there.

Fire watchtower in the center of the monument. We weren’t about to hike up there.

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 Bill Cavalerie, the owner of the 4 Bars.  Nice guy, ex-sheriff of the county

Bill Cavalerie, the owner of the 4 Bars. Nice guy, ex-sheriff of the county

Shots from the viewpoint at the top

Shots from the viewpoint at the top

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Hoodoos after hoodoos after hoodoos

Hoodoos after hoodoos after hoodoos

Our next day trip was to head out to Crown King, AZ, an old gold mining town about 30 miles west of I-17 and a couple hours outside of Phoenix. You can get to it through Wickenburg, on US 93 on the way to Las Vegas. You have to drive through some pretty rough roads, though, and it takes over 4 hours. Take the one at the Bumble Bee exit off of I-17, or the next one to Cleator/Crown King. The road is in pretty good shape. It has to be kept open because there are multiple cell and communication towers on the mountain that Crown King is on. The Century Link trucks have to be able to get through and we saw several on the day we drove up there. A couple of times we came across road graders working on the road. Luckily at the times we did the road was wide enough for us to pass by. There are places where the road is cut through solid rock and not much wider than the mirrors on those trucks. They have to really slow down when going through the gap but that’s about the only time they do.

It’s a good drive to take, a bit dusty, hahaha. You need A/C because you don’t want to put you windows down. There’s a bunch of ATVs that use this road for access into the backcountry and all the riders had dust masks and goggles because of the environment. In fact, the ATV appeared to be the vehicle of choice for the residents of Crown King. Don’t think for a minute that the town is a complete backwater. One of the houses for sale, a 5 bedroom one, was priced at over $400,000, and that’s for a 30 mile dirt/gravel road, well water and septic tank utilities. There are some for under $150K but not many. Actually there are quite a few for sale, but many are over $300K. At least there is electricity, and wood for fireplaces and stoves, but that’s about it. There’s a small store and a saloon that has a large, lit outdoor patio for music during the summer weekends. There’s a small town, not much more than a bar and a couple houses, Cleator, on your way to Crown King. You can’t miss it because there’s a hairpin turn in the middle of the “town”.

 Southern Bradshaw Mountains, location of Crown King at slevation near 5900”

Southern Bradshaw Mountains, location of Crown King at slevation near 5900”

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 Cleator from the road into “town”.

Cleator from the road into “town”.

 Cleator Tavern and store.  Sorry for the blurry autofocus.  Captured Bozo rather than background.

Cleator Tavern and store. Sorry for the blurry autofocus. Captured Bozo rather than background.

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 Entering Crown King

Entering Crown King

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 Ugly javelina, dark saloon contributed to bad focus.  But the thing was fuzzy to begin with.

Ugly javelina, dark saloon contributed to bad focus. But the thing was fuzzy to begin with.

 Rattlesnake skin is as big as a two-man saw!

Rattlesnake skin is as big as a two-man saw!

 Crown King Saloon interior

Crown King Saloon interior

 Crown King Saloon “patio”.

Crown King Saloon “patio”.

 Patio implies paving?  Not in AZ.  Don’t have to sweep this one.

Patio implies paving? Not in AZ. Don’t have to sweep this one.

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 Crown King Saloon

Crown King Saloon

 The gateway into, and out of, Crown King.

The gateway into, and out of, Crown King.

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 Not much chance of ice today.  Although it did snow in Flagstaff the day we were at Jerome.

Not much chance of ice today. Although it did snow in Flagstaff the day we were at Jerome.

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 Windmill and well for cattle watering near Government Spring, just north of Bumble Bee, AZ

Windmill and well for cattle watering near Government Spring, just north of Bumble Bee, AZ

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 Flock of yellow and one blue butterfly at the wet spot near the windmill and tank

Flock of yellow and one blue butterfly at the wet spot near the windmill and tank

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 Fin target practice?

Fin target practice?

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 In the center on top of the Mogollon Ridge is Sunset View Rest area, 55 miles North of Phoenix on I-17.

In the center on top of the Mogollon Ridge is Sunset View Rest area, 55 miles North of Phoenix on I-17.

 From the road, AZ(?) 59, to Bumble Bee.  Again the rest area.  The Mogollon Ridge is a major geographic element that forms much of the plateau  of northern AZ and Utah.

From the road, AZ(?) 59, to Bumble Bee. Again the rest area. The Mogollon Ridge is a major geographic element that forms much of the plateau of northern AZ and Utah.

 One of the few saguaros in this area.  Mostly ocotillo and palo verde trees

One of the few saguaros in this area. Mostly ocotillo and palo verde trees

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 Dust wagon, after we got back to pavement on the way from Bumble Bee back to I-17.

Dust wagon, after we got back to pavement on the way from Bumble Bee back to I-17.

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Mogollon Ridge from the Alki Canyon outside of Bumble Bee AZ

Mogollon Ridge from the Alki Canyon outside of Bumble Bee AZ

Well, this has taken about 3 days to complete. I had started and gotten past the Chiricahua Monument photos and saved the draft. When I went back to finish this post I had to update my Windows 10. That took 2 days and one night to complete due to the size of the download and Comcast’s lousy speeds. We’re paying for extra capacity but that doesn’t matter much when the system is overloaded by streaming during the day and evening. The downloads are nowhere near the 5MBS we are suppose to have.

Not a lot more to share from Arizona, however, we took a new route back. North from Phoenix, through southern Utah to St. George, then Salt Lake City to Boise, Lewiston and then home. I’ll try to get into that next week.

During the past two weeks we had a tough time here. My oldest brother, Pat, had been dealing with pulmonary fibrosis. Six and a half years ago he was diagnosed with it and given 5 to 7 years. He lived those last years with a vengeance but his time finally ran out. His best friend, Craig, was with him when he passed peacefully on July 31. Thankfully he had made his plans with Craig as his estate executor.

He had gone downhill quite quickly after this past winter. When we got back from Paris in March Cathy and I could not get out to the island to see him because of our colds, he was too susceptible to infections for us to go. So we went to Arizona as soon as both of us was healthy to travel and when we returned to Seattle at the end of April we could see a marked decline in his ability to move around. A short 10-15 foot movement around his house meant sitting down for 10-15 minutes for him to catch his breath again. We’re sad to not have him around but at least he’s not suffering anymore. At his request there will be a celebration of his life on September 14 at the house were he lived on Vashon Island for the past few decades. He wanted his friends and family to work on cleaning up his collection of wine and fine alcohol.

Until I get back to our trip past the Vermillion Cliffs following the Colorado River valley into Utah it’s

Ciao for now.

August 17, 2019 /James Engrissei
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